羊毛絮片防寒服缝纫工艺的参数优化设计  

Parameters' optimization combination of sewing process of winter coat filled with wool

作　　者：张睿[1] 刘静静[1] 肖红[1] 

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学服装与艺术设计学院,陕西西安710048

出　　处：《纺织学报》2014年第6期115-118,共4页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：陕西省教育厅自然科学研究项目(11KJ0974)

摘　　要：针对羊毛絮片防寒服针眼处的钻毛现象,采用正交试验设计,参考GB/T 12705—2009《织物防钻绒性实验方法》,测试在不同的缝纫加工条件下从织物面料和针眼钻出的羊毛量。利用SPSS软件对正交试验结果进行方差分析,求得优化的缝纫工艺参数组合,同时探讨各缝纫条件对针眼钻毛量的影响。结果表明:对于羊毛防寒服,最优的缝纫工艺组合为:选用9号圆头机针,缝纫线线密度为14.8 tex×3,针迹密度为9针/3 cm;机针号与缝纫线线密度均对针眼钻毛量的影响显著且程度相当,而针迹密度对针眼钻毛量影响较小。There are some wool fibers penetrating out of the winter coat filled with wool during wearing process.In terms of the phenomenon,the orthogonal experiments are used to test the quantities of wool fibers penetrating out from the fabrics and the needle holes in different sewing conditions,which refers to ＂the Fabrics-Testing Method for Anti-Penetration Capability of Feather and Down＂ （GB/T 12705-2009）.SPSS software is used to analyze the orthogonal experiments results,seeks the optimization combination of the sewing parameters and discusses the influence of the quantities of wool fibers penetrating out from the fabrics under different sewing conditions.It shows that,for the winter coat filled with wool,the optimization combination of the sewing parameters are as follows：No.9 round head sewing needle,linear density of sewing line of 14.8 tex ×3,and stitch density of 9 needle/3 cm.It also shows that the influences of needle size and sewing line＇ s linear density are quite noticeable and equivalent,but the stitch density has less influence.

关 键 词：羊毛絮片防寒服 钻毛量 机针号 缝纫线线密度 针迹密度 正交试验 

分 类 号：TS941.736[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]