不同缝纫工艺下缝纫阻力的测试与分析  

Test and Analysis of Penetration Force in Different Sewing Process

作　　者：王越平[1] 曹元森 李英[3] 王海建[3] 

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029 [2]国家棉纺织产品质量监督检验中心,北京100025 [3]北京爱慕内衣有限公司,北京100102

出　　处：《北京服装学院学报（自然科学版）》2014年第1期29-35,共7页Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology：Natural Science Edition

摘　　要：本文采用L&M缝纫性测试仪对不同缝纫工艺下的针织物和机织物缝纫阻力进行了测试.测试了织物层数、织物正反面以及缝纫方向不同时,面料缝纫阻力的大小;测试了不同缝针、缝纫线时的缝纫阻力.实验结果表明:织物的缝纫阻力随织物的层数增加而成倍数以上的增大;机织物在45°角左右缝纫时,缝纫阻力最大;针织物在接近纵行和横列方向,缝纫阻力出现最大值;穿引缝纫线会增大缝纫阻力,但缝纫线对缝纫阻力的增大作用较缝针的作用微弱.同时,实验过程中还发现,针织物的缝纫阻力比机织物的不匀率高,缝针刺到纱线上的概率高,因此针织物不易于缝纫.本论文的研究,希望对服装加工给予帮助,以提高服装质量和服装加工效率.In this study, the penetration force under different number of layers, penetration force in different sewing direction, penetration force on the face and back side of fabrics, penetration force with the effect of sewing needle and thread are tested by using L＆M sewing tester. The experiment results show that the sewing penetration force will increase greatly with the fabric layers. The sewing penetration force of woven fabric is maximal, when sewing in an angle of 45 degrees or so. Sewing penetration force is maximal, when sewing along the longitudinal and transversal direction in knitted fabrics. In addition, most fabric＇ s sewing penetration force is almost the same in face and back side unless the special fabric. When sewing by ball point needle, penetration force is reduced comparing with sharp point needle. Different sewing threads can affect penetration force, but have a little~ effect. Using the appropriate needle and thread can prevent from sewing damages. By studying on the fabric sewing penetration force, we hope it is helpful for fabric design, and apparel production.

关 键 词：缝纫性能 缝纫阻力 缝纫工艺 针织物 机织物 

分 类 号：TB332[一般工业技术—材料科学与工程]