织物起拱 第一报:主观评价和心理物理标度(英文)  

Fabric bagging, Part I: Subjective perception and psychophysical mechanism

作　　者：张欣[1] 李毅[1] 杨国荣[1] 姚穆[2] 

机构地区：[1]香港理工大学纺织及制衣学院 [2]西北纺织工学院纺织科学与工程系,陕西西安710048

出　　处：《西北纺织工学院学报》2001年第2期165-173,224,共10页Journal of Northwest Institute of Textile Science and Technology

摘　　要：美观是消费者日常服装穿着功能中最重要的指标之一。起拱是一种外衣穿着中引起变化，令人不满的三维残余变形。一种主观评价方法是从一系列起拱织物的照片来理解心理物理学规律，采用优劣排序等级和优劣评判等级两种方法用于心理评价标度。这两种等级互相间紧密相关，但评判等级比排序等级包含更多的信息，可以更好地区分出两种织物间的差异．主观评价结果与测量得到的残余起拱高度之间线性相关，表明了织物起拱特性符合斯特藩指数定律。残余起拱高度对织物起拱特性总方差的贡献在９４％以上。其它可能是起拱时各向异性因素引起的。Aesthetic appearance is one of the most important criteria used by consumers in judging clothing wear performance. Bagging is a kind of three-dimensional residual deformation that deteriorates garment appearance during wear and caused dissatisfaction. To understand the psychophysical mechanisms of fabric bagging perception,a method of subjectively evaluating this behavior is developed by using a series of photographs taken from bagged fabric samples. Both ranking and rating scales are uded as the psychological scales. The two scales are highly correlated with each other,but the rating scale provides more information than the ranking scales and can indicate perceived differences between fabrics. A linear relationship between subjective perceptions and measured residual bagging height shows that perception of fabric bagging follows Stevens' power law. Residual bagging height contributes up to 94% of the total variance in the perception of fabric bagging. The rest of the variation may be attributed to anistropic behavior during the bagging process.

关 键 词：织物起拱 主观评价 心理物理标度 

分 类 号：TS101.923[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]