羊毛与涤纶交织导湿快干针织面料的开发  

Development of Wool and Polyester Interknitted Fabric withMoisture-transfer and Quick Drying

作　　者：张义男 杨启东 夏磊 朱家圳 Zhang Yinan;Yang Qidong;Xia Lei;Zhu Jiazhen(Shanghai Challenge Textile Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 201504,China)

机构地区：[1]上海嘉麟杰纺织品股份有限公司,上海201504

出　　处：《针织工业》2019年第1期1-3,共3页Knitting Industries

基　　金：国家重点研发计划(2017YFB0309100)

摘　　要：采用10.00 tex紧密纺防缩羊毛纱与5.60 tex/36 f阳离子改性涤纶交织,8.90 tex/144 f阳离子改性涤纶单面编织,在德国德乐32针/25.4 mm细针距双面小提花纬编大圆机上,设计开发一款具有导湿快干功能的羊毛针织面料。阐述面料的开发思路、原料选择、编织工艺、染整工艺以及技术要点,并测试面料的基本性能和导湿快干性能。结果表明,面料尺寸稳定性佳、轻薄细腻、手感柔滑、导湿快干、穿着舒适,适合春夏季贴身穿着。A kind of wool and polyester interknitted fabric with moisture-transfer and quick drying function was designed and developed on Germany Terrot gauge 32 fine gauge double-sided small jacquard circular knitting machine by using 10.00 tex compact spun felt-resistant wool yarn and 5.60 tex/36 f cationic modified polyester interknitting,and 8.90 tex/144 f cationic modified polyester single knitting.The development idea,material selection, knitting process,dyeing and finishing process and technical points of the fabric were described.And the basic properties and moisture absorbing and quick drying properties of the fabric were tested.The results show that the fabric has good dimensional stability,light and delicate texture,smooth handle,moisture absorption,quick drying and comfort,which is suitable for intimate wear in spring and summer.

关 键 词：针织面料 防缩羊毛纱 阳离子改性涤纶 导湿快干 吸湿排汗 双面织物 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]