双色段彩纱强度及其织物图案研究  

Tenacity and fabric pattern of two-color segment yarn

作　　者：李梦真 杨恩龙[1] 张叶丽 费振涛 王莉 钟菁 陈斯启 LI Mengzhen;YANG Enlong;ZHANG Yeli;FEI Zhentao;WANG Li;ZHONG Jing;CHEN Siqi(College of Material and Textiles Engineering,Jiaxing University,Jiaxing 314001,China)

机构地区：[1]嘉兴学院材料与纺织工程学院,浙江嘉兴314001

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2019年第2期11-14,共4页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：国家级大学生创新创业训练计划项目(201810354001)

摘　　要：段彩纱色彩丰富,面料立体感强,但纱线强度较低,花纹图案重现率低,因此难以大批量生产。探究了双色段彩纱单位长度上的色段数对纱线强度的影响,当50 cm纱线内色段数少于5个时,纱线的强度稳定性较好。通过纹织CAD模拟不同投纬方式下段彩纱的织物图案,并与实际织造的段彩纱织物图案进行比较,结果显示两者具有较好的一致性。分析了段彩纱循环长度、各彩段长度比例、投纬方式以及织物幅宽对织物图案的影响。The segment color yarn features rich in color, and strong three-dimensional effect of its fabric, but it has low production and is difficult to mass-produce rate due to its low tenacity of the yarn and low pattern reproducibility. The effect of the number of color segments per unit length on the yarn tenacity of a two-color segment yarn is explored. When the number of color segments in a 50 cm is less than 5, the yarn has good stability of tenacity. The fabric patterns of different weft insertion patterns are simulated by weaving CAD, and compared with the actual color yarn fabric pattern. The results show the two have good consistency. The influence of the color yarn cycle length, the ratio of the color segment lengths, the weft insertion method, and the fabric width on the pattern is analyzed.

关 键 词：花式纱线 段彩纱 强度 织物图案 投纬方式 纹织CAD 

分 类 号：TS182.7[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]