双层分割拉纬法双面立绒组织设计  

Weave design of two-sided velvet based on cut double layered and weft pulling

作　　者：金子敏[1,2] 周丹[2] 朱永祥 阎玉秀[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江省服装工程技术研究中心(浙江理工大学),浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室,浙江杭州310018 [3]嘉兴市天时纺业有限公司,浙江嘉兴314001

出　　处：《纺织学报》2014年第7期57-60,共4页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：数字化纺织技术浙江省重点科技创新团队项目(2011R50004);浙江省服装工程技术研究中心开放基金资助项目(2012005)

摘　　要：基于单梭口织机,通过分析常规起绒织物的设计方法,创新地设计了N型、W型固结组织和引入辅助纬纱的双面经起绒组织。先设计双层地部组织,同时织入辅助纬纱,辅助纬纱不与上下层地经交织,在上下层地部织物的外侧;绒经连接上下2层,绒经在与上层、下层的纬纱交织时,绒经上方或下方的其中一方包覆在辅助纬纱外侧,另一方在辅助纬纱内侧,从而形成双面经起绒双层组织。利用双层织物分割割绒技术先产生内层单面立绒,再通过整纬机拉出织物中的辅助纬纱,使包覆在辅助纬纱外侧的绒经从外层被拉出,形成外层毛绒。应用这项技术开发的织物毛绒簇立好,手感柔软舒适,达到了水洗机洗不易脱绒和起毛起球的效果。Based on the single-shuttle loom,N-type and W-type binding weaves and two-sided velvet weave by lead-in auxiliary weft picks are designed innovatively through analysis of the weave construction design method of conventional raised fabrics. Double layered ground weave is designed,and auxiliary weft picks are designed simultaneously which suspended outside the face and back ground fabrics,not interwoven with ground warp. Pile ends link the face and back fabrics and interwoven with wefts of the single layer. One of the pile ends whether above or below is covered in the outside of the auxiliary weft,and the other side covered in the inside of the auxiliary weft,thus forming two-sided warp pile double layered weave. The warp pile cutting technology is adopted to produce the inner single-sided velvet.Auxiliary wefts are pulled out of fabric by using weft sorting machine,the pile ends which are covered in the outside of auxiliary weft are pulled out from the outer layer to form the outer layer pile. Two-sided velvet fabrics developed using this design possess full piles,soft handle,and achieve the effect of without pilling by washing or machine washing.

关 键 词：双面立绒 割绒 拉纬 组织设计 固结组织 

分 类 号：TS146[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]