国内外皮肤衣面料的服用性能对比  

Wearability comparison between domestic and foreign skin apparal fabrics

作　　者：王旭[1] 张巧玲[1] 李亚娟[1] 

机构地区：[1]河南工程学院服装学院,河南郑州450007

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2014年第7期50-52,62,共4页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：河南省教育厅科学技术研究重点项目(14B540004)

摘　　要：为了对比国内外皮肤衣面料的服用性能差异,选择5种具有代表性的皮肤衣面料,分别探讨了织物力学性能、舒适性能和外观保持性的优劣及其主要影响因素,并采用灰色关联度的方法对其服用性能进行了综合评价。结果表明:普通的进口皮肤衣面料的服用性能普遍优于国产皮肤衣面料;锦纶皮肤衣面料的力学性能和外观保持性优良;应合理选择面料的结构参数,纱线细度过细,织物密度和厚度过小,织物的力学性能和外观保持性均会显著下降,反之则影响织物的舒适性。涂层整理在提高织物耐磨性的同时,降低了透气性和透湿性,适当的硬挺整理可改善皮肤衣面料的保形性。In order to investigate the difference between domestic and foreign skin apparal fabrics, five typical skin apparal fabrics are choosen to compare their wearability. The mechanical properties, comfort properties and appearance retention are respectively discussed with the main influencing factors analyzed. The comprehensive assessment of their wearability is carried out based on the grey correlation theory. The result shows that the wearability of foreign apparal skin fabrics is generally superior than that of domestic apparal skin fabrics. The mechanical properties and appearance retention of nylon skin apparal fabrics are excellent. It is necessary to choose the fabric structure parameters reasonably. If the yam is too thin, the fabric density and thickness is too small, the mechanical properties and appearance retention of the fabric will decrease significantly. In reverse, the comfort property will be destroyed. The abrasion performance will be improved by coating finish but the air and moisture permeability will be reduced. Fabric shape preservation will be improved by appropriate stiffness finish.

关 键 词：皮肤衣 力学性能 舒适性能 外观保持性能 服用性能 

分 类 号：TS101.923.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]