大都会博物馆馆藏1920年代西方女裙研究  

Research on Western Dress of 1920s Collected in the Metropolitan Museum of Art

作　　者：万芳[1] 李文心[1] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《艺术与设计（理论版）》2014年第7期103-105,共3页Art and Design

基　　金：上海市教育科学研究项目(B13018);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助;上海市研究生教育创新项目资助;上海一流学科(B类)资助

摘　　要：随着第一次世界大战的结束,20世纪20年代的欧洲服装产业及发生了翻天覆地的变化。伴随着女性的社会地位地位与生活方式的变迁,这一时代的审美眼光也颠覆了以往的标准。同时,装饰艺术运动席卷欧洲,这种艺术风潮影响了20年代时尚风潮的方向,造就了一批极具天赋头脑灵活的设计师,而他们为这一时期所设计的最具代表性的服装便是直筒女裙。国内业界对这一时期女裙的特点研究,仍是停留在廓形和整体风格,而未对具有标志性的装饰特点加以分类研究。美国大都会博物馆馆藏丰富,尤其是这一时期的裙装实物,实属难得,文章以大都会博物馆馆藏1920年代女裙实物为研究对象,研究和总结这一时期女裙装饰手法,从而加深对该时期服饰风格的理解和掌握,能够运用到以后的设计与创新中。As the end of the Great War, the European clothing industry in 1920s took place dramatic changes. With the change of women＇ s social status and life style, the aesthetic taste of this period also destabilized the previous standard. Meanwhile, Art Deco movement swept across Europe, which influenced the fashion trend of 1920s. It brewed a number of talented designers with quick minds and the most typical clothing they designed for this period was straight dresses. The domestic researches on the dress characteristics of this period still stay in silhouette and the whole style, but haven＇ t conducted classified research on the symbolic decorative characteristics. The Metropolitan Museum has rich collections, especially rare to find the real dresses of this period. This paper takes real dresses of 1920s collected in the Metropolitan Museum as object to research and summarize the decorative methods in this period so that the clothing style of this period can be better understood and mastered to apply it in the future design and innovation.

关 键 词：大都会博物馆 20世纪20年代 西方 女裙 装饰 

分 类 号：J53[艺术—艺术设计]