色织衬衣面料的悬垂性能研究  

Study on Drapability of Yarn-dyed Shirt Fabric

作　　者：石浩轩 徐广标[1] 姚金龙[2] 向中林[2] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学,上海201620 [2]江苏联发纺织股份有限公司,江苏海安226601

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2014年第8期1-4,21,共5页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：中国博士后科学基金面上资助(2012M511011)

摘　　要：研究色织衬衣面料悬垂性能的影响因素。以33种代表性的色织衬衣面料为对象,测试并评价了面料的悬垂性能,探讨了织物悬垂性能与弯曲、剪切性能之间的关系,分析了织物各结构参数对织物悬垂性能的影响,建立了织物结构参数与静态悬垂系数的关系方程。结果表明:织物弯曲刚度和剪切刚度越大,织物越刚硬,其静态悬垂系数也越大,悬垂性能越差;随着织物交织点、织物紧度、厚度、织物单位面积质量的增加,织物悬垂性能变差。认为:织物的悬垂性能与其弯曲、剪切性能具有显著相关性,从结构参数上看,织物的悬垂性能主要取决于织物组织、总紧度和单位面积质量。Influence factors of yarn-dyed shirt fabric drapability were studied. Taking 33 kinds of typical yarn-dyed shirt fabric as object, the drapability of the fabrics was tested and evaluated, the relationships among fabric drapability and bend, shear property were discussed, the influence of the fabric structure parameters on the fabric drapability was analyzed, the relationship equations between fabric structure parameters and fabrics static drape coefficient were established. The result shows the larger the fabric bending stiffness and shear stiffness are, the stronger the fabric rigid is, the larger its static drape coefficient is, the worse the drapability is. As the fabric interweave point, fabric tightness, thickness and mass per unit area increasing,the fabric drapability becomes worse. It is considered that the fabric drapability,bending and shear property have significant correlation, judging from structure parameters, the fabric drapability mainly depends on fabric texture ,total tightness and mass per unit area.

关 键 词：色织衬衣面料 悬垂性能 弯曲刚度 剪切刚度 结构参数 关系方程 

分 类 号：TS101.923[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]