PTT/绢丝混纺织物的风格及服用性能  

Style and wearing properties of PTT /spun silk blended fabrics

作　　者：潘志娟[1,2] 朱思敏[1] 欧佩玉[1] 眭建华[1,2] 

机构地区：[1]苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,江苏苏州215021 [2]苏州大学现代丝绸国家工程实验室,江苏苏州215123

出　　处：《纺织学报》2014年第8期163-168,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：四川省经信委重点技术创新项目(2012PT038)

摘　　要：为将PTT纤维的形状记忆性与绢丝优异的服用性能相融合,用绢纺工艺将PTT纤维与绢丝混纺,制成混纺比为50/50的PTT/绢丝混纺纱,并以其为经纬纱设计织造了5种PTT/绢丝混纺面料,此外还以相同规格织造了3种纯绢纺纱对比试样,测定了这8种织物的手感、悬垂性及保形性(折皱回复性、拉伸回弹性)、透通性(透气、透湿性)和抗起毛起球性能,对比分析了PTT/绢丝混纺织物和纯绢丝织物的风格和服用性能。结果表明,PTT纤维对绢纺织物的风格与服用性能有良好的改善作用,与纯绢丝织物相比,PTT/绢丝混纺织物的折皱回复性、拉伸回弹性提高,柔软性和悬垂性好,滑糯性、透通性和抗起毛起球性能略差。In order to integrate the shape memory property of PTT with the excellent wearability of silk, this paper used silk spinning technology to manufacture PTT/spun silk blended yarns with a blending ratio of 50/50, used them as warp and weft and wove 5 kinds of PTT/spun silk blended fabrics. In addition, another 3 kinds of pure spun silk fabric with the same specifications were woven as well. The handle, drape, shape preservation （wrinkle and tensile resilience） , permeability （ air and moisture） and pilling resistance of all the 8 kinds fabrics were tested, and a comparison was made of the fabric style and wearing properties between the pure spun silk fabrics and PTT/spun silk blended fabrics. The results shows that when compared with pure spun silk fabrics, PTT/spun silk blended fabrics have better wrinkle and tensile resilience, softness and drape, but slightly poorer smoothness, permeability and pilling resistance.

关 键 词：PTT 绢丝 混纺 风格 服用性能 

分 类 号：TS145.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]