Determining the Onset and Strength of Unforced Wave Breaking in A Numerical Wave Tank  

作　　者：何海伦 宋金宝 

机构地区：[1]State Key Laboratory of Satellite Ocean Environment Dynamics, Second Institute of Oceanography, State Oceanic Administration [2]Key Laboratory of Ocean Circulation and Waves, Chinese Academy of Sciences

出　　处：《China Ocean Engineering》2014年第4期501-509,共9页中国海洋工程（英文版）

基　　金：financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.41106019 and 41176016);the Public Science and Technology Research Funds Projects of Ocean(Grant No.201105018);the Scientific Research Fund of the Second Institute of Oceanography,SOA(Grant No.JT1205)

摘　　要：A numerical wave tank is used to investigate the onset and strength of unforced wave breaking, and the waves have three types of initial spectra： constant amplitude spectrum, constant steepness spectrum and Pierson-Moscowitz spectrum. Numerical tests are performed to validate the model results. Then, the onset of wave breaking is discussed with geometric, kinematic, and dynamic breaking criteria. The strength of wave breaking, which is always characterized by the fractional energy loss and breaking strength coefficient, is studied for different spectra. The results show how the energy growth rate is better than the initial wave steepness on estimating the fractional energy losses as well as breaking strength coefficient.A numerical wave tank is used to investigate the onset and strength of unforced wave breaking, and the waves have three types of initial spectra： constant amplitude spectrum, constant steepness spectrum and Pierson-Moscowitz spectrum. Numerical tests are performed to validate the model results. Then, the onset of wave breaking is discussed with geometric, kinematic, and dynamic breaking criteria. The strength of wave breaking, which is always characterized by the fractional energy loss and breaking strength coefficient, is studied for different spectra. The results show how the energy growth rate is better than the initial wave steepness on estimating the fractional energy losses as well as breaking strength coefficient.

关 键 词：wave breaking numerical wave tank fractional energy loss breaking strength coefficient 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学]