棉、木棉混纺保暖内衣面料开发及性能研究  

Development of Cotton/Kapok Blended Yarn Fabric for Thermal Underwear and Its Property Study

作　　者：陈力群 

机构地区：[1]泉州海天材料科技股份有限公司面料事业部,福建泉州362000

出　　处：《针织工业》2014年第8期1-4,共4页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：采用线密度分别为18.5 tex和14.8 tex的棉、木混纺纱(混纺比均为80∶20),在日本福原单面机(机号为28针/25.4 mm)上编织纬平针织物,设计4因子3水平正交实验,优化织物前处理煮练工艺,并给出染色和柔软整理工艺配方及曲线。对棉、木棉,棉、莫代尔混纺织物分别进行保暖性能测试,包括热阻性、湿阻性、色牢度和抗起毛起球性。结果表明:棉、木棉混纺织物比保暖内衣最常用的棉、莫代尔混纺织物具有更好的保暖性和相同的湿阻,同时棉、木棉混纺织物的干摩擦色牢度比湿摩擦色牢度好,并且有很好的水洗牢度,但是该织物抗起毛起球性比较差。可以采用紧密纺等工艺来改善棉、木棉混纺织物的抗起毛起球性能,使其适用于保暖内衣的开发。The paper develops a kind of plain knitted fabric used for thermal underwear on the 28 G Fuyuan single circular knitting machine, by using cotton/kapok （80/20） blended yarn with two kinds of yarn linear densi- ties 18.5 tex and 14.8 tex. An optimal scouring technology is gained according to orthogonal design, and the dyeing and softening recipes and curves are given as well. In addition, the main thermal properties of cotton/kapok and cotton/modal blended yarn fabrics are tested, including thermal resistances, water-vapour resistances, color fastness and pilling resistances properties. The results show that cotton/kapok blended fabrics have good thermal resistance property which is significantly higher than that of cotton/modal blended fabrics, and the water vapour resistance property is same as that of cotton/modal blended fabrics which are normally used as underwear; the dry rubbing fastnesses of cotton/kapok blended fabrics is higher than wet rubbing fastnesses; and cotton/modal blended knitted fabrics has better pilling resistance, grade than that of cotton/kapok blended fabrics. Finally, it is concluded that cotton/kapok blended fabrics are appropriatety used for thermal underwear, the main limitation of these fabrics, however, is their low pilling resistance properties.

关 键 词：木棉纤维 混纺纱 纬平针织物 煮练工艺 保暖性能 保暖内衣面料 

分 类 号：TS186.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]