蕾丝面料生产工艺研究  

A Research on Production Process of Lace Fabric

作　　者：钟明文[1] 王利平[1] 魏成龙[1] 吴薇[1] 

机构地区：[1]内蒙古工业大学轻工与纺织学院,内蒙古呼和浩特010081

出　　处：《针织工业》2014年第8期19-22,共4页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：介绍了蕾丝面料的原料选择及花型组织的确定,并在德国卡尔·迈耶LRJ83/1B型贾卡簇尼克多梳花边机上生产两种织物。生产工艺为：GB1穿入英威达氨纶,地梳GB2穿入半消光、全拉伸丝锦纶6,贾卡梳JB89和JB90均穿入半消光、全拉伸丝锦纶6,GB92穿入46.7 tex（420 D）的氨纶,GB91空穿。根据产品的不同,其花针的上料和穿法不一样。最后指出,生产中蕾丝花边受到外力拉扯时易发生脱散现象,利用定形机高温熔融固结氨纶可解决脱散问题,固结温度为190℃,时间30~45 s,机速采用600~800 mm/min。该生产工艺已应用于实际生产,提高了产品质量。The selection of material and design of pattern texture are introduced, and the manufacturing process of two fabrics by using Karl Mayer LRJ83/1B Jacquard tronic multi-bar lace is illustrated. The production process is as follows： INVISTA spandex is threaded in GB1, semi-dull and fully drawn Polyamide 6 is threaded in GB2 and Jacquard tronic bar JB89 and jB90, and the spandex with fineness of 46.7 tex （420 D） is threaded in GB92, GB91 in empty. The feeding and threading ways of pattern needle are different with respect to different of products. The lace is easily to unrove when i stretehed by external force during production, but which can be eliminated by melting spandex at high temperaturd. The melting process is as follows, the temperature is 190 ℃, the time is 30- 45 s, and the speed of machine is 600-800 mm/min. This production process has been used in practice, and the quality of production has been improved.

关 键 词：经编面料 蕾丝 氨纶 锦纶 编织工艺 后整理工艺 脱散性 

分 类 号：TS184.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]