湘西永顺西兰卡普技艺调查  

An Investigation on the Technique and Art of Xilankapu in Yongshun of Western Hunan

作　　者：安薇竹 王乐[1] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装.艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《丝绸》2014年第8期20-25,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家科技支撑计划课题资助项目(2013BAH58F01);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(14D110721)

摘　　要：湘西永顺是西兰卡普的发源地,该地区的平纹素色西兰卡普作为一种保留最原始状态的西兰卡普手工技艺,目前缺少研究和保护。通过对湖南湘西永顺地区西兰卡普和使用织机的实地调研,对永顺地区西兰卡普的组织结构、图案构成及色彩和西兰卡普织机的形制、织造原理及操作方法进行了研究。并对永顺地区织机各部件的尺寸功能进行了测绘和描述,且详细分析绘制了西兰卡普的组织结构图和织机开口示意图。展示了作为发源地的永顺西兰卡普的艺术特征及审美内涵,有助于了解、保护和传承即将消亡的以永顺地区为代表的传统平纹素色织锦。Yongshun in Western Hunan is the birthplace of Xilankapu.Tabby Xilankapu with plain color in this region as Xilankapu craftsmanship with the initial conditions lacks researches and protection.Based on the investigation on Xilankapu and the weaving technique in Yongshun area in Western Hunan,this paper studies weave structure,pattern arrangement and color of Xilankapu,shape and structure of Xilankapu weaving machine,weaving principle and operating method,measures and describes sizes and functions of each part of the weaving machine.Besides,this paper analyzes and draws organizational chart of Xilankapu and schematic diagram of weaving machine opening.Weaving machine and aesthetic connotation of Xilankapu are displayed.These are helpful for the protection and inheritance of the endangered traditional plain woven textile-Xilankapu in Yongshun.

关 键 词：永顺 西兰卡普 传统技艺 织机 文化保护 田野调查 

分 类 号：TS105.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]