基于提花技术的横编针织物图案设计与工艺  

Flat-knit fabric pattern design and technique based on jacquard technology

作　　者：李晓英[1,2] 蒋高明[1] 高哲[1] 杨娟[3] 于倩倩[2] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122 [2]广东工业大学艺术设计学院,广东广州510090 [3]南通大学纺织服装学院,江苏南通226019

出　　处：《纺织学报》2014年第9期36-40,共5页Journal of Textile Research

摘　　要：为进一步提高设计师开发复杂花型及综合运用多种技术的能力,以横编技术为依托,重点对提花技术包括嵌花技术的设计应用进行阐述。举出编织实例,通过STOLL电脑横机的M1 Plus花型准备系统实现。分析编织步骤与技术细节,从应用部位、组织结构、纱线选择、技术难度等方面探讨提花图案的设计要点。认为提花织物相对于嵌花织物来说设计难度低,嵌花织物应控制好编织区域数量,技术重点是边缘处理,应避免多区域同时交接。To further improve designers＇ ability in developing complex patterns and using all kinds of technology, this paper discussed the design and application of flat knitting, figure pattern and intarsia, with actual examples that were executed by MI Plus system from STOLL. Weaving process and technical details were given. Key points of jacquard pattern design were investigated in terms of using parts, weave and structure, yarn selection, and technological difficulties. The conclusion showed that as far as designing is concerned, intarsia is more difficult than jacquard, so the key technology of intarsia is to control the number of knitting area, and focus on weaving edge to avoid multi-area transition at the same time.

关 键 词：提花技术 嵌花技术 图案设计 编织工艺 设计要点 

分 类 号：TS184.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]