原液着色黏胶针织提花面料的开发  

Development of Dope Dyed Viscose Jacquard Knitted Fabric

作　　者：陈莉娜[1] 姚永标[1] 许瑞超[1] 

机构地区：[1]河南工程学院纺织学院,河南郑州450007

出　　处：《针织工业》2014年第9期4-6,共3页Knitting Industries

基　　金：2014年度河南省教育厅科学技术研究重点项目(14A540001)

摘　　要：在介绍原液着色黏胶纤维生产概况及基本性能的基础上,采用红、黄、蓝3种颜色的原液着色黏胶纱和白色莫代尔纱线交织,在单面无缝内衣机上开发4种提花面料。阐述织物花型结构的设计过程,包括织物的编织图、意匠图和效果图等,并说明了上机编织工艺及注意事项。所开发的产品具有花纹图案漂亮、手感细腻、柔软、悬垂、吸湿、透气、凉爽等特点,同时无须染整,生产工艺流程短,成本低,能耗少,绿色环保,具有一定的市场开发潜力。Based on the production situation and characteristics of dope dyed viscose fiber, the paper develops four kinds of single jacquard knitted fabrics on the single circular seamless underwear machine by using dope dyed red, yellow and blue viscose yarns inter-knitted with modal. It introduces in detail the design methods of fabric pattern, including knitting diagram, notation, loop structure and so on, as well as the knitting technology and dyeing and finishing technology. The results show that the fabrics made in this paper not only have good pattern,exquisite and soft hand, but also present good drapability, moisture absorption, air permeability and cool feeling,which are green environmental protection products with short production process, low cost, less energy consumption and no-dyeing with a great market potential.

关 键 词：原液着色黏胶纱 莫代尔纱 交织 单面提花面料 仿梭织 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]