仿梭织灯芯条产品的生产实践  

Production Practice of Woven-simulated Corduroy Product

作　　者：许兰杰[1] 

机构地区：[1]辽东学院服装与纺织分院,辽宁丹东118003

出　　处：《针织工业》2014年第9期7-9,共3页Knitting Industries

基　　金：辽宁省科学技术计划项目(2013220008)

摘　　要：采用16.7 tex吸湿排汗Coolplus纤维为原料,运用单面提花组织,设计具有纵条外观的3+1仿梭织灯芯条产品。从组织结构设计、色彩搭配、原料选择、设备参数等方面分析产品设计方法,并详细给出在24针/25.4 mm单面圆纬机上编织织物的规格参数推导公式及过程。同时指出,编织过程中应注意控制喂纱张力、合理设定牵拉张力、设计合适的花型宽度,并且可通过采用宽窄不一的纵条以及不同粗细的纱线,获得独特的凹凸感灯芯条产品。该仿梭织灯芯条织物条纹挺凸醒目,织物吸湿透气,是理想的高档衬衫和T恤面料。The paper develops a new kind of 3＋1 woven-simulated corduroy product with lengthwise stripe appearance employing single jacquard structure by using 16.7 tex moisture absorption and sweat transferring Coolplus fiber. In addition, it analyzes the product design method in terms of structure design, color collocation, raw material selection and equipment parameters and so on, the specification parameters derivation formula and the knitted process on 24 G single circular knitting machine are also given in detail. Meanwhile, it points out the controlling feeding tension, setting reasonable drawing tension and designing suitable pattern width should be paid attention to during the process of knitting, and the unique corduroy product with the concave-convex feeling can be obtained by using lengthwise stripes with different width and the yarns with different size. The product made in this paper can present characteristics of marked convex stripes and good moisture absorption., which is suitable for high-grade shirt and T-shirt fabrics.

关 键 词：仿梭织灯芯条 COOLPLUS纤维 单面提花组织 纵条外观 织物参数推导 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]