毛针织双面提花织物悬垂性的探讨  

Discussion on double jacquard wool knit fabric drape

作　　者：陈文焰 

机构地区：[1]惠州经济职业技术学院服装与艺术系,广东惠州516057

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2014年第11期41-45,共5页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：毛针织双面提花织物的悬垂性能在很大程度上影响织物的外观效果,并决定织物的适用范围。文章采用同机号电脑横机、同种纱线编织横条、芝麻点、空气层、天竺、畦编组织5种双面提花织物样片,并进行悬垂性测试及外观效果比较,静态悬垂系数测试结果:横条为70.37%;芝麻点为55.56%;空气层为51.85%;1×1天竺为40.74%;畦编为48.58%。织物组织适用性和悬垂性评价:横条适用正面,悬垂性差;芝麻点适用正面,悬垂性中;空气层适用双面,悬垂性中;1×1天竺适用正面,悬垂性优;畦编适用双面,悬垂性良好。Drape sided jacquard knit wool largely affect the appearance of the fabric,and determines its scope. In this paper,using the same machine No. computerized flat knitting machines,yarn knitting the same bar,sesame point,the air layer,Tianzhu,double jacquard cardigan five kinds of fabric swatches,comparison tests conducted drape and appearance,static drape coefficient test results： bar for70. 37%; sesame point 55. 56%; air layer is 51. 85%; 1 × 1 Tianzhu 40. 74%; cardigan for 48. 58%.Applicability and drape rating： Applicable front bar,drape poor; sesame point applies positive,drape;the air layer applied double-sided,drape in; 1 × 1 Tianzhu applicable front,drape excellent; cardigan applicable sided,good drape.

关 键 词：双面提花织物 悬垂性 电脑横机 线圈 浮线 悬弧 

分 类 号：TS186[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]