双丝包芯纱的生产及在牛仔面料中的应用  

Production of Double Filament Core-spun Yarn and Its Application in Denim

作　　者：王思顺[1] 徐仁利 刘涛 高德生 葛静静 

机构地区：[1]山东服装职业学院,山东泰安271000 [2]山东岱银纺织集团股份有限公司,山东泰安271000

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2014年第11期33-37,共5页Cotton Textile Technology

摘　　要：探讨双丝包芯纱生产工艺及在牛仔面料中的应用效果。针对普通棉氨纶包芯纱弹性牛仔面料回复性差、耐反复拉伸性差,在服用中易出现鼓包、抽丝、断丝、变形等质量问题,利用CM800弹性涤纶长丝和氨纶长丝生产出棉双丝包芯纱并应用于牛仔面料,对比分析了其与普通棉氨纶包芯纱牛仔面料的性能差异,并对不同后整理工艺效果进行了试验优选。结果获得了改善面料弹性性能的良好效果。认为:正确选择长丝原料和工艺路线,控制涤纶长丝含量和张力,合理配置捻系数能够纺制出质量满足要求的棉双丝包芯纱,用于牛仔面料,其纬向缩水率、弹性回复率较优,弹性伸长率有所减小。采用半程浸轧→低温定形整理工艺能够获得较好的后整理效果。Production of double filament core-spun yarn and its application in denim were discussed. Problems existed in common cotton spandex core-spun yarn elastic denim were analyzed including worse recovery property and resistance to repeated stretching, snag, broken wire, deformation in wear. Cotton double filament core-spun yarn spun by CM800 elastic polyester and spandex filament were used in denim. The denim property were contrasted and analyzed to common cotton spandex core-spun yarn denim. Finishing processing were tested and optimized. Finally the denim elasticity is better. It is considered that double filament core-spun yam quality demand can be reached through selecting filament and processing line correctly, controlling polyester filament content and tension, optimizing twist factor. The core- spun yarn can be used in denim, the denim weft shrinkage and elastic recovery rate are better, elastic elongation rate is reduced. Finishing effect is better through adopting half padding lower temperature setting finishing processing.

关 键 词：双丝包芯纱 涤长丝含量 张力控制 捻系数 缩水率 弹性伸长率 弹性回复率 

分 类 号：TS104.79[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]