斜裙基型优化  

Optimization of Bias-cut Dress Pattern

作　　者：王文[1] 王建萍[1] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装.艺术设计学院

出　　处：《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》2014年第4期24-28,共5页Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology

摘　　要：基于已有的斜裁基型,在固定制图裙长的情况下,制作不同角度、不同片数的30件斜裁样衣。通过相关性分析和方差分析,分析关键部位实验数据,得出相关结论:斜裁角度和裙片数量显著影响成衣裙长,并且斜裁角度显著影响结构图中成衣裙长线的位置。从几何角度分析证明斜裁裙装的裙片数量与裙长线位置的关系,提出优化后的斜裁裙装基型。本课题结合平面几何和立体结构的相关知识,优化斜裁裙装制版方法,提高服装制图的精确性和有效性,为后续不同面料性能的斜裁裙制版研究打下基础。Based on the existing bias-cut dress pattern, 30 sample dresses with different angles and pieces have been made in the condition of fixed dress length. By analyzing the correlation and the variance, and the experimental data in key parts, this paper concludes that the bias-cut angle and dress piece amount clearly influence the dress length, and the angle clearly influences the location of dress length line. The relationship between the dress piece amount and the length line location has been geometrically proved, and optimized dress pattern has been proposed. This research combines related knowledge of plane geometry and solid structure, optimizes the method of making bias-cut dress, and improves the accuracy and validity of garment drawing, which lays the foundation for the follow-up research of bias-cut dress pattern with different fabrics.

关 键 词：斜裁 斜裙 基型 裙长 裙片数量 

分 类 号：TS941-0[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]