不同人体厚度状态下贴体上装的衣身结构  

Study on structure of fitted clothes of upper apparel with different thicknesses of body

作　　者：胡潮江 贺义军[1] 王宏付[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2015年第1期141-146,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：江苏省2013年度普通高校研究生科研创新计划项目(CXZZ13_0750)

摘　　要：身体厚度是人体纵深向的厚度尺寸,是研究女装侧面外观效果的参考尺寸,其结构处理技术影响服装与人体体表的吻合程度。以160/84A国标女上半身人台为研究对象,采用美国Opti Tex软件的三维CAD技术设置虚拟人体模型,并以0.56 cm的公差增加人体模特的侧面厚度,共变化10次,然后通过数字化立体裁剪的方式获得衣身样板,以平面图片叠加的分析方法,对比分析不同贴体衣身样板中各工艺点的位移变化,总结衣身平面结构的变化规律及优化服装贴体原型的方法。结果显示:人体厚度每增加0.56 cm,胸围、腰围、上胸围基本呈等差增加,贴体样板横向尺寸的变化大于纵向尺寸,前后腰省、肩省等都相应增大。Body thickness refers to thickness dimension along with human body depth,and it is a reference size for analyzing side appearance of women apparel.The structure processing technology influences the coincidence of garment and body figure.With the help of three-dimensional CAD software technology of the United States OptiTex,the side of the virtual model is made taking 165/84A figure model as research object,and the thickness tolerances increase by 0.56 cm,a total increase of 10 times.To obtain the pattern of the structure in the way of the digital draping,the variation of displacement of different process points of the fitted pattern in different thickness of body is observed and the change rule of body planar structure variation and apparel fitted prototype optimization methods is summarized by the analysis method of plane pictures stacking.The result shows that with the thickness of body increases by 0.56 cm,the bust,waist,and chest are in arithmetic increase.The variation of fitted pattern in lateral dimension is larger than the vertical size.The front and rear waist darts,shoulder dart,etc.will all increase accordingly.

关 键 词：人体厚度 衣身结构 工艺点 平面结构 贴体样板 

分 类 号：TS941.6[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]