适应现代技术的纹织工艺探究  

An Approach to Jacquard Process Adaptable to Modern Technology

作　　者：杨明霞[1] 邹清云[1] 普丹丹[1] 

机构地区：[1]河南工程学院纺织学院

出　　处：《纺织导报》2015年第2期40-42,共3页China Textile Leader

摘　　要：随着提花机的更新换代及纹织CAD系统的普及,纹织工艺发生了较大变化。本文阐述了目前提花机目板设计及装造过程中可能出现的问题及解决办法。电子提花机的目板穿法须根据纹针的设置来选择,采用空针的方法能使装造适应品种密度的变化,从而降低装造成本;零花在目板上的安排和传统的方法相反。纹板编排需保证织出纹样的方向及组织飞数与原始设计一致,如有必要可在进行意匠处理时把纹样上下或左右颠倒后再制作纹板文件;利用纹织CAD制作纹板文件时,投梭和样卡需根据织物结构、生产设备、意匠工艺等因素设计。With the upgrading of jacquard loom and the popularity of jacquard CAD, jacquard process has changed greatly. In this paper, the possible problems appeared in the designing and mounting of jacquard harness board were probed and solutions were given. The harness board of electronic jacquard must be tied according to the settings of figured hooks; the empty needle method can be used to adapt to the density changes of ~ucts, so as to reduce the cost of jacquard mounting; and the harness board arrangements of pattern-less area ~ contrary to traditional methods. The pattern card arrangements must ensure that the direction of woven patterns and step number are consistent with original design, if necessary, the design can be upside down or kft-right reversed before making the pattern file during preparing jacquard design; and when making pattern file with jacquard CAD, picking and sample card should be designed by taking fabric structure, production equiprnent and jacquard technology into consideration.

关 键 词：大提花 纹织CAD 装造 投梭 样卡 

分 类 号：TS105.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]