莨绸生产工艺技术综述  

A Mini-review on Manufacturing Technique of Gambiered Canton Silk

作　　者：李淳[1] 陈南生 柯惠琪 曹维强[3] 任忠海[1] 

机构地区：[1]广东出入境检验检疫局检验检疫技术中心,广州510623 [2]广东省丝绸纺织集团有限公司,广州510180 [3]惠州出入境检验检疫局检验检疫综合技术中心,广东惠州516006

出　　处：《蚕业科学》2015年第1期166-170,共5页ACTA SERICOLOGICA SINICA

基　　金：广东省科技计划项目(No.2012B020305004)

摘　　要：莨绸是一种采用纯手工织造和植物染料染整制作而成的蚕丝面料,其生产工艺已有500年历史,为我国非物质文化遗产。本文从莨绸传统的生产工艺入手,系统地阐述了莨绸生产依赖的自然环境条件、技术条件,特别介绍了天然染色原料在莨绸生产过程中的作用,包括薯莨选择、薯莨汁的用途、塘泥的选择和使用,以及薯莨汁和塘泥作为天然染色剂的染色机理,并对莨绸生产目前存在的技术与标准化问题等进行了梳理分析,提出在深入研究染色机理和建立相关标准的基础上,进一步优化莨绸的生产工艺技术条件,提升莨绸品质和开发多样化产品,促进莨绸这一珍贵的非物质文化遗产得到保护与创新发展。Gambiered canton silk is a kind of silk fabrics stained with botanic dyes by pure-manual weaving. The manufacturing technique of gambiered canton silk has a history of 500 years and has been listed as an intangible cultural heritage in China. From the angle of traditional manufacturing technique of gambiered canton silk, this paper systematically summarized the natural environment condition and technological conditions required for production of gambiered canton silk, and especially introduced the function of natural dyeing material in the production of gambiered canton silk, such as selection of Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour., utilization of Dioscorea cirrhosa juice, selection and utilization of pond sludge, dyeing functional theory of Dioscorea cirrhosa juice and pond sludge used as natural staining agent. In addition, this paper analyzed the existing problems of manufacturing technique and standardization in gambiered canton silk production. It was put forward that based on studying dyeing mechanism and establishing related standards, manufacturing technique conditions of gambiered canton silk should be further optimized to improve the quality of gambiered canton silk and to develope differential products so as to promote the protection, innovation and development of this previous intangible cultural heritage.

关 键 词：莨绸 生产工艺 染色机理 标准化 

分 类 号：TS193.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]