女式针织毛衫袖窿工艺设计探讨  

Design and Analysis of Armhole Technology of Women's Knitted Sweaters

作　　者：马春艳[1] 

机构地区：[1]东北农业大学艺术学院,黑龙江哈尔滨150030

出　　处：《针织工业》2015年第2期61-63,共3页Knitting Industries

基　　金：黑龙江省艺术科学规划项目(2014B005)

摘　　要：通过对人体特征与服装结构原理的分析,探讨针织毛衫款式不断创新与变化的形式下针织毛衫工艺设计思路,提出针织毛衫的设计要在充分了解人体特征的基础上,运用服装结构原理,进行科学分析,同时注重艺术设计。以一款平装袖合体毛衫的工艺设计为例,分别套用常规的针织毛衫工艺计算公式和按照梭织服装胸围与袖窿比例关系计算公式,计算出袖窿宽针数和挂肩转数,对结果进行比较和分析;然后归纳出4种毛衫袖窿常用的收针方式。In terms of the continuous innovation and development of jersey＇s style,the paper discusses the de- sign philosophy and viewpoints through analyzing the body characteristics and garment structure principle. It points out that the design of knitted sweater should analysis the garment structure based on the body characteristics,and pay more attention to art-designing. It indicates the technological design of form-fitting sweater with flush sleeve, such as calculating the stitches of armhole width and shoulder respectively by conventional jersey design computing formula and proportions in chest and armhole of woven garment,then comparing and analyzing the results. In addi- tion ,it summarizes four narrowing styles of jersey armhole.

关 键 词：服装结构 针织毛衫 袖窿曲线 工艺设计 

分 类 号：TS941.7[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]