基于水槽实验的近岸波浪破碎计算研究  

Near-shore wave breaking calculation based on the flume experiment

作　　者：杨家轩[1,2,3] 李训强[2] 朱首贤[4] 张文静[2] 王磊[2] 

机构地区：[1]海军工程大学振动与噪声研究所,湖北武汉430033 [2]解放军理工大学气象海洋学院,江苏南京211101 [3]船舶振动噪声重点实验室,湖北武汉430033 [4]河海大学港口海岸与近海工程学院,江苏南京210098

出　　处：《海洋通报》2015年第1期45-51,共7页Marine Science Bulletin

基　　金：国家自然科学基金(41076048;40906044)

摘　　要：将前人波浪破碎计算及判定公式进行汇总、整理并分成3类;同时,为了对选取公式进行比较,文还将上述公式分为两类破碎波高计算模型,一类是直接计算模型;另一类是联立拍岸浪波高计算模型与破碎判据,建立的间接计算模型。在此基础上,结合实验数据,对破碎波高和破碎指标进行误差分析得出,间接计算模型中,Goda提出的破碎判据效果最好,为下一步拍岸浪精细化预报以及其区域计算模型的建立提供参考。The present calculation and judgment formulas for the breaking height are concluded and divided into three categories. Meanwhile, in order to compare these formulas, they are divided into two calculation models： one is the direct computing model; and the other is indirect computing model based on the surf calculation model and the criterion of breaking. Then, the calculated values are compared with experiment data, according to the error analysis of breaking height and breaking indices. The results show that the indirect computing model using Goda＇s formula is the best. And it provides reference for further study on the accurate forecasting and regional calculation about surf.

关 键 词：波高计算 波浪破碎 破碎指标 拍岸浪计算模型 

分 类 号：P731[天文地球—海洋科学]