考虑非线性频散效应的风浪关系及其应用  

Research on wind wave considering nonlinear dispersion effect and its application

作　　者：舒勰俊[1] 侯堋 江森汇[3] 

机构地区：[1]国家海洋局南海海洋工程勘察与环境研究院,广东广州510300 [2]珠江水利科学研究院,广东广州510611 [3]中国科学院南海海洋研究所,广东广州510301

出　　处：《海洋工程》2015年第1期83-89,共7页The Ocean Engineering

基　　金：国家海洋局南海分局海洋科学技术局长基金资助（1407）

摘　　要：随着我国沿海地区海洋经济的快速发展，相关海域的风浪规律的研究越来越受到人们的重视。依据 Toba 的风浪3/2指数律和非线性频散关系推导得到一个新的波陡波龄关系式，简化获得适用于深水情况下的波陡波龄关系式；基于考虑非线性频散效应的波龄波陡深水关系式，并结合有效波能量平衡方程，进一步推导出包含非线性频散效应的深水海域风浪公式。利用新的深水风浪公式，并结合 Mitsuyasu 开阔海域风区、风速经验公式，研究了江苏沿海海域的风浪规律，且与 NCEP 再分析风浪数据以及其他公式结果进行对比分析。分析结果表明所获得的新深水风浪公式适用范围更广，且在只考虑风速这个单一参数条件下计算得到的江苏外海波浪要素与 NCEP 再分析风浪数据吻合程度最好，且更接近其他学者的研究成果。计算过程可避免开阔海域风区长度推算的不确定性和人为因素所产生的误差，可为我国风浪成长规律的理论研究和海洋工程深海风浪要素推算提供参考。With the rapid economic development of China’s coastal waters, wind wave mechanism is more and more concerned. This paper primarily introduces the deduction of new wind wave growth relations. Firstly, a new relation formula between wave steepness and wave age was deduced by combining the 3/ 2 power law developed by Toba with the nonlinear dispersion relation deduced by Li et al.,and by ignoring the effect of water depth. Secondly, based on the combination of this new relation formula with the significant wave energy balance equation, new wind wave growth relation formulae including the wave nonlinear dispersion effect of wave amplitude were deduced. When the deduced growth relation formulae were applied in the offshore area of Jiangsu considering Mitsuyasu’ s empirical formula for the open sea fetch and wind speed, accurate open sea wave parameters of Jiangsu could be formulated by only considering one parameter, such as wind speed. Overall,as this methodology can avoid the uncertainty about the fetch of open sea and operation error during the calculation process, results gained from this report have higher accuracy than other published formulae. The results were validated by NCEP reanalyzed data of the open sea of Jiangsu and other researches. The new relations provide references for studying wind wave growth theory and calculating open sea wave parameters of ocean engineering.

关 键 词：波陡波龄关系 风浪关系 非线性频散关系 江苏外海 

分 类 号：TV139.2[水利工程—水力学及河流动力学]