缝纫条件对针织服装边口质量的影响  

The effect of sewing conditions on the side mouth quality of knitted apparel

作　　者：陆鑫[1] 高宏红 吴世刚[1] 

机构地区：[1]辽东学院服装与纺织学院,辽宁丹东118003

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2015年第3期20-24,共5页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：丹东市工业攻关项目资助(132092);辽东学院功能纺织材料重点实验室资助项目

摘　　要：弹性针织服装边口部位的质量问题比较突出,主要表现为穿着过程中的拉伸变形及缝线断裂等,成为制约针织服装品质的主要因素。选取10种弹性针织面料,采用实验法研究缝纫条件对服装边口部位的影响,以期为针织服装生产提供技术依据与参考。研究显示:线迹密度参数不同,边口的强度与伸长率也会产生差异。边口强度、边口伸长率与线迹密度呈正比关系。选用特氟隆压脚缝制,边口尺寸相对稳定。而缝纫线对伸长率和断裂强力的影响较显著。选用涤纶线缝制时,边口伸长率与断裂强力均好于棉线。双滚边的边口强度与边口伸长率最大。In the sewing process of elastic knitted fabric, the quality problems are mainly characterized as tensile deformation when dressing and sewing thread breaking of the side mouth parts, which become the main factors to restrict the quality of knitted garment. In this paper ten kinds of elastic knitted fabrics are chosen to study the effect of the sewing conditions of elastic knitted fabric on the side mouth parts of the garment by means of experimental method. The study shows ： if the stitch density is different, the strength and elongation of the side mouth part will be different. The strength, elongation and stitch density of the side mouth have proportional relation. The size of the mouth side is relatively stable when choosing the teflon to sew the pressure foot while the sewing thread has a remarkable effect on the elongation and breaking strength. The elongation of the side mouth and the breaking strength are superior to the cotton thread when choosing polyester thread to sew. The strength of the side mouth and elongation of the double edge piping are the maximum.

关 键 词：针织服装 弹性面料 缝纫条件 边口部位 质量 

分 类 号：TS941.634[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]