羊毛纤维低温染色工艺的优化  

Optimization of low temperature dyeing process for wool fiber

作　　者：张莉[1,2] 王健红[1,2] 赵一然[1,2] 

机构地区：[1]内蒙古工业大学,内蒙古呼和浩特010080 [2]广州天祥质量技术服务有限公司纺织鞋类测试实验室,广东广州510000

出　　处：《染整技术》2015年第3期17-19,共3页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

摘　　要：羊毛纤维常规的沸染工艺会对羊毛纤维造成一定损伤,通过采用不同染色助剂,使常规的98℃（沸染）染色温度降低至75-80℃。减少染色时间20%-30%,并在上染率、染后强力、助剂用量、染色时间、染色温度等方面进行比较,最终筛选出低温助剂,摸索出适合低温助剂的染色工艺。结果表明,应用低温染色助剂可以使羊毛针织物在80-85℃下染得常规染色的表观深度,染色牢度达到了常规染色牢度等级,染透性达到常规染色水平,染色后羊毛单纤维断裂强力和伸长比常规染色工艺有明显提高。采取低温染色工艺最大限度地减少了染色对羊绒纤维的损伤,纤维强力比常规染色高出10%-15%,纤维的可纺性大大提高,而染色牢度与常规染色相比没有下降。Different dyeing auxiliaries were applied to make dyeing temperature decreased from conventional 98 ℃ （boiling coloration） to 75-80 ℃, for conventional boiling coloration of wool fiber always cause certain damage. Dyeing time was reduced for 20%-30%, low temperature auxiliary was chosen, and dyeing process with low temperature auxiliary was investigated by comparing dye-uptake, color fastness, auxiliary dosage, dyeing time and dyeing temperature etc. The results showed that, under 80-85 ℃, low temperature auxiliary can make wool knitting achieve conventional dyeing apparent depth, color fastness and dye permeability reached the same level as conventional dyeing process. The breaking strength and breaking elongation of wool fibers after dyeing improved definitely than conventional dyeing process. The low temperature dyeing process can reduce the damage for wool fiber that brought by dyeing temperature, fiber strength enhanced for 10%-15% comparing with conventional dyeing, and fiber spinnability improved significantly, while dye fastness was essentially unchanged from conventional dyeing.

关 键 词：羊毛 助剂 染料 低温染色 染色牢度 羊毛强力 

分 类 号：TS193.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]