民间服饰云肩中人物纹样的语义考析  

Figure Patterns of Folk Costume-Yunjian and Its Significance

作　　者：邢乐[1] 梁惠娥[2] 刘水[2] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学汉族服饰文化与数字创新实验室 [2]江南大学纺织服装学院

出　　处：《艺术设计研究》2015年第1期54-60,共7页Art & Design Research

基　　金：国家社会科学基金项目"汉族民间服饰文化遗产保护及数字化传承创新(12BMZ049)";江南大学自主科研项目"汉族民间服饰文化遗产保护与利用-以传统民间服饰云肩为例(2013ZX11)"的阶段性成果

摘　　要：云肩是一种装饰于肩部的服饰品,形制多样,制作技艺精湛,纹样题材广泛。人物纹样是其装饰纹样中与造物者、着装者最密切相关的一类,记录戏曲情景、喜庆场面、宗教活动以及人们向往的生活态势,质朴生动。文章在文献考证、实物分析与田野调查的基础上,阐释云肩服饰中所见人物纹样背后的文化动态与情感诉求,有利于进一步正确认识我国传统民间信仰与民俗文化,进而推动华夏民族对自身文化的自省与认同。Yunjian was a kind of folk costume, which used to decorate people＇s shoulder during the Modern Times. And it was exquisite in workmanship, multifarious in patterns and forms. The Character pattern was a category most nearly associated with the fabricators and wearers, recording opera activities, festive scenes, religious rites and ideal living conditions. Meanwhile, it had the essential features of Chinese traditional patterns which was mystical and pregnant, vivid and simplicity. This article mainly based on physical analysis and field research in order to interpet the cultural implications and emotion claim of figure patterns. It is conducive to people enhance understanding of traditional folk beliefs and culture, promoting chinese for their cultural identity.

关 键 词：民间服饰 云肩 人物纹样 民俗文化 情感诉求 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]