羊毛微弹细针距高档针织西装面料生产实践  

Production Practice of Fine Gauge Top Class Suit-used Slight Elastic Knitted Fabric

作　　者：张义男 单苗苗 

机构地区：[1]上海嘉麟杰纺织品股份有限公司,上海201504

出　　处：《针织工业》2015年第4期1-3,共3页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：以10.0 tex紧密纺防缩羊毛纱和8.3 tex/48 f的PTT弹性纱为原料,在德乐细针距(40针/25.4 mm)双面棉毛机上开发一款羊毛微弹细针距针织面料。详细阐述面料编织工艺,包括原料选择、设备参数、编织注意事项等,以及染PTT纱线和染羊毛纱线的染整工艺及技术要点等,并对成品面料缩率及牢度等指标进行测试。结果表明,该针织西装面料轻薄,手感柔软,风格细腻,高雅挺括,具有弹性好、保暖性佳等特点,适用于制作春秋穿着的高档西装、大衣面料。The paper develops a new kind of fine gauge top class suit-used slight elastic wool knitted fabric on Terrot double interlock machine with ultra fine gauge （40 G）, by using 10 tex compact spinning non-shrinkable wool yarn and 8.3 tex/48 f PTT elastic yarn. It also introduces in detail the knitting technology, including raw- material selection, equipment parameters and the key points during knitting process, and the dyeing and finishing technology for PTT and wool yarn. In addition, the shrinkage rates and corresponding fastness of the new products are tested. The results show that the new fabric made in this paper has light-weight and bears soft hand, fine tex- ture, slight elasticity and heat retention properties, which is suitable for developing spring and autumn top class knitted fabric used for suit and overcoat.

关 键 词：羊毛 PTT纤维 细针距 编织工艺 针织西装面料 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]