28针多梳拉舍尔剪线花边工艺设计与生产实践  

Technological Design and Knitting Practice of the Trimming Lace Fabric Knitted on 28G Multi-bar Raschel Warp Knitting Machine

作　　者：贺克杰[1,2] 张艳[1] 

机构地区：[1]泉州师范学院陈守仁工商信息学院,福建泉州362000 [2]福建省百凯经编实业有限公司,福建泉州362241

出　　处：《针织工业》2015年第4期17-20,共4页Knitting Industries

基　　金：泉州市科技计划重点项目(2012Z107);泉州师范学院校级自选项目(2013KJ05)

摘　　要：目前,在机号28针/25.4 mm机器上开发的蕾丝花边(简称28针花边)由于花型美观细腻、轻薄通透,深受消费者青睐。文中分别介绍28针多梳拉舍尔花边的编织原理和剪线原理;并从28针剪线花边的特点入手,阐述其工艺设计的技巧和方法,包括剪线头根部的工艺设计、剪线长度的控制、剪线梳栉的层数分配等;最后分析地梳和花梳原料的选择以及挑线和剪线的生产控制等。以期对28针多梳拉舍尔剪线花边的研发与生产提供一定的参考。Laces knitted on 28 G multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine （28 G Lace for short） are nowadays always popular among consumers because of its good appearance, fine smooth, lightness and breathable properties. The paper introduces its knitting and trimming principle respectively. Then it illustrates the technological design skills and methods in terms of product characteristics, such as cutting thread ends, the length control of yam cut and the distribution of stripping comb layer. At last, it analyses the material selection of ground and pattern bar, and production control in picking up and end cutting. The results made in this paper is helpful to improve the re- search and production of this kind of lace.

关 键 词：花边 多梳拉舍尔经编机 剪线 工艺设计 生产控制 

分 类 号：TS184.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]