浮纹起花与纬起花织物的对比分析  

Comparison and analysis of overshot fabric and weft-figured fabric

作　　者：臧海迪 白燕[1] 尚志刚 

机构地区：[1]上海工程技术大学服装学院,上海201620 [2]杭州可靠护理用品股份有限公司,浙江杭州311300

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2015年第5期6-8,共3页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：上海工程技术大学教学建设项目(项目编号:A1-0601-14-01211)

摘　　要：阐述了浮纹起花和纬起花2种织物在花纹结构、上机工艺、CAD设计系统、织造设备、织物外观及使用等方面的差异,针对以上几方面对2类织物进行对比分析。得出浮纹起花织物的花纹设计更加灵活方便、简捷、容易操作,但是对织造设备(附加浮纹机构)的要求高,纬起花织物的设计相对复杂,但织造技术成熟;从织物效果及使用看,浮纹起花织物柔软细腻、轻薄,花型品种少;纬起花织物花纹饱满,品种更加丰富多样,花纹可设计的范围较为广泛,织物厚实,耐用。This paper talked about the difference of overshot fabric and weft-figured fabric on pattern structure, weaving technology, CAD design system, weaving equipment, fabric appearance and uses. It can be seen from drawing weave diagram and weaving that overshot fabric＇s pattern design is more flexible and convenient, operate easily, but the demand of weaving equipment （additional float mechanism） is high. The weft-figured fabric＇s design is relatively complex, but its weaving technology is mature. In terms of fabric effect and uses, overshot fabric is soft, delicate and light, but pattern varieties are less, however weft-figured fabric＇s pattern is more full and diverse, it has a wide range of pattern design. Weft- figured fabric is thick and durable.

关 键 词：浮纹 纬起花 组织 纹样 织造 

分 类 号：TS105.11[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]