缝纫工艺参数对银纤维缝纫线可缝性的影响  

Influences of sewing parameters on the sewing adaptability of silver-coated sewing thread

作　　者：毛鹏丽 王利君[1,2] 范琳超 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江省服装工程技术研究中心,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2015年第6期65-68,共4页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：浙江省服装工程技术研究中心开放基金资助项目(项目编号:2013KF13);浙江省重点科技创新团队项目(项目编号:2011R50004);国际科技合作与交流专项项目(项目编号:2011DFB51570);浙江理工大学校研究生科研创新项目(项目编号:YCX12018);浙江理工大学校大学生科研创新计划项目(项目编号:2013XSKY39)

摘　　要：针对银纤维缝纫线比常用缝纫线脆、强力较小、耐磨性较差的问题,采用正交试验设计,选用L9(34)正交表,测试不同缝纫条件下银纤维缝纫线的可缝性,探讨机针针号、针迹密度、缝纫线张力对银纤维缝纫线可缝性的影响。结果表明:缝纫线张力对银纤维缝纫线可缝性的影响最为显著,机针针号和针迹密度对其影响相对较小。对银纤维缝纫线缝纫工艺参数进行优化得到最佳缝纫工艺组合:机针针号为11#,针迹密度为9针/3 cm,缝纫线张力为45 c N。In allusion to the problem that silver-coated sewing thread performs worse than the common sewing thread on intensity and wearability, this paper uses orthogonal test design, selects L9 （34） orthogonal table, measures the sewing adaptability of silver-coated sewing thread under different sewing conditions and studies the influences of various sewing parameters on the sewing adaptability of silver-coated sewing thread, including sewing needle, stitch density and sewing thread tension. The result shows that sewing thread tension has the most significant effect on the sewing adaptability of silver- coated sewing thread. And the research results also shows that, for silver-coated sewing thread, use of 11# sewing needle, stitch density of 9 stitches per 3 centimeter, sewing thread tension of 45eN is the optimum combination of sewing parameters.

关 键 词：银纤维缝纫线 缝纫工艺参数 可缝性 机针针号 针迹密度 缝纫线张力 正交设计 

分 类 号：TS941.634[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]