缓坡地形拍岸浪数值模拟研究  

Numerical Simulations of Surfing Waves on Mild Slopes

作　　者：李训强[1] 杨家轩[1,2] 朱首贤[3] 于利军[1] 张亚行 钟凯[5] 

机构地区：[1]解放军理工大学气象海洋学院 [2]海军工程大学振动与噪声研究所 [3]河海大学港口海岸与近海工程学院 [4]中国人民解放军95137部队 [5]中国人民解放军73159部队

出　　处：《海洋科学进展》2015年第2期155-163,共9页Advances in Marine Science

基　　金：国家自然科学基金--引入波浪漫滩边界的近岸海域悬沙输运数值模式及其应用(41076048)和长江冲淡水扩展区域低盐水团动力机制(40906044);中央高校基本科研业务费项目--流和温盐垂向异构坐标的新型海洋模式研制及其应用(2011B05714)

摘　　要：采用基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程建立的精细化海浪数值模型——Funwave-TVD模式及水槽实验数据进行拍岸浪数值模拟研究,并对不同入射情况拍岸浪进行数值模拟得出:拍岸浪缓坡传播过程中,均符合波高先增大直至破碎后迅速减小这一现象;在典型坡度1.91°(1∶30)情况下,进行了大量数值模拟,当仅入射波高增大时,破碎波高增大,破碎位置向深水区移动;当仅入射周期增大时,除上述特征外,当周期增大到一定程度时,这种趋势显著减弱;同时,当入射周期和波高较大时,非线性效应增强,模拟结果出现不稳定。下一步将利用实验与数值模拟相结合的优势,对前人拍岸浪预报方法和理论进行深入分析研究,为实现拍岸浪精细化预报提供优化解决方案。Funwave-TVD model is used to simulate surf based on flume experiments in this paper. Further, the model is applied to simulate surf on typical mild slope 1 ： 30 with different incident conditions, with varying heights, periods and water depths. The results show that. as waves propagate in shallow water, nu- merical simulations are consistent with the observed phenomenon that the wave height increases at first and rapidly decreases after breaking. When the incident height or period is increased, the height of breaking wave will also increase, while the location of breaking point moves towards deep water area. However, if the incident period goes up to a certain large value, the increasing trend velocity of wave breaking height will diminish. Meanwhile, when the incident height or period is large enough, the result of the model will be unstable because of the enhancement of the nonlinear effect. Next, both theories and methods of surf forecasting by previous researches will be studied with the experimental and numerical methods, in order to accurately forecast the process of surfing waves in large regions.

关 键 词：Funwave-TVD 拍岸浪 数值模拟 波浪破碎 破碎指标 

分 类 号：P731[天文地球—海洋科学]