翻驳领松量及里外匀预测模型  

Predicting model of collar roll ease and width of face and back of lapel collar

作　　者：吴巧英[1] 李亚玲[1] 朱航宁 吴春胜[2] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江科技学院艺术设计学院,浙江杭州310023

出　　处：《纺织学报》2015年第6期92-96,105,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：浙江理工大学研究生创新研究项目(YCX13017);浙江理工大学重中之重学科资助项目(2013XSKY37)

摘　　要：为研究面料厚度对翻驳领松量及里外匀的影响规律,选取常用外衣面料试样,测试了面料黏合前后厚度,用切展法确定翻驳领松量,测得表领领外口松量、翻折线松量、表领绕到里领侧松量等里外匀参数指标,探讨了面料黏合厚度与翻驳领松量及各里外匀指标的相关关系,建立了预测翻驳领松量及里外匀的回归模型,并选择3块新试样对模型预测结果和实测结果进行了比较。结果表明,预测结果和实测结果基本一致,翻驳领松量及里外匀的回归模型具有良好的预测效果。The purpose of this paper is to find out the effect of fabric thickness on collar roll ease and differences between top and under of lapel .collar. Commonly-used outwear fabrics were chosen to test the thickness of fabric with and without interlining. The lapel roll ease of under collar was tested with slash and spread method. The differences between top and under of lapel collar, including outer edge ease of top collar, roll line ease of top collar and the ease added to allow the outer edge of top collar hiding to the under collar, were tested. The relationship between fused fabric thickness and lapel roll ease, differences of top and under collar were discussed, and the predicting models were established. Moreover, three new fabrics were chosen to test the model by comparing the calculating result with the testing result, showing that the established model of collar roll ease and differences between top and under of lapel collar has good predicting effect since the result based on predicting model is basically coincide with the testing result.

关 键 词：面料厚度 翻驳领 翻领松量 里外匀 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]