化妆品用新型有机硅蜡的性能研究  

Study on Performance of a Novel Silicone Waxes for Cosmetics

作　　者：徐运欢 高鹏东 孙东明 

机构地区：[1]广州市斯洛柯高分子聚合物有限公司,广州510663

出　　处：《有机硅材料》2015年第3期220-225,共6页Silicone Material

摘　　要：以端含氢硅油、α-十二碳烯为原料,在氯铂酸催化下进行硅氢加成反应,合成了直链十二烷基封端硅油;然后与四甲基四硅氧烷在磺化阳离子树脂催化下进行反应,得到直链十二烷基封端、侧链含活泼氢的有机硅中间体;再与α-C20-45直链烯烃在氯铂酸催化下进行硅氢加成反应,制得直链十二烷基封端、侧链带C20-45直链烷基的有机硅蜡。通过傅里叶红外光谱和核磁共振氢谱表征了产物结构。通过考察侧链烷基的比例对有机硅蜡的收率、外观、熔点、折射率、黏度及与常用化妆品成分的相容性的影响发现,在直链烷基的碳原子数为20(即y=20)、二甲基硅氧链节数为22(即b=22)条件下,甲基烷基硅氧结构单元的链节数为40(即a=40)时,低熔点有机硅蜡的综合性能最好;在y=40、b=22条件下,a=20时,高熔点有机硅蜡的综合性能最好。低熔点硅蜡与大多数常用化妆品成分在50℃的相容性都好;高熔点硅蜡与大多数常用化妆品成分在99℃的相容性都好。将产物添加到唇膏配方中,能提高唇膏的滋润性和透气性,尤其是高低熔点硅蜡混合使用时,效果更佳。Straight chain dodecyl-terminated silicone oil was synthesized by hydrosilylation under the catalyst of chloroplatinic acid,with the raw material of the hydrogen containing polydimethylsiloxane and α-dodecylene. Then the obtained silicone intermediate was synthesized by straight chain dodecyl-terminated silicone oil reacting with hydrogenous D4 under the catalyst of sulfonated cation resin. Finally,the silicone waxes were synthesized by hydrosilylation with α-C20-45straight-chain olefins and the silicone intermediate under chloroplatinic acid. The structure of product was characterized by FT-IR and1 H NMR. By observing the influence of proportion of alkyl side chain on the yield,appearance,melting point,refractive index,viscosity of silicone wax and compatibility with the common-used cosmetics,it is discovered that under the condition of y = 20,b= 22,a = 40,silicone wax（ low melting point） is in good performance; under the condition of y = 40,b =22,a = 20,the silicone wax（ high melting point） is in excellent performance. Low melting point silicone wax has good compatibility with most cosmetics at 50℃. While high melting point silicone wax has good compatibility with most cosmetics at 99℃. When adding the product into the lipstick formulation,its moisture and breathability is greatly improved,when mixing both low and high melting point silicone wax.

关 键 词：有机硅蜡 端含氢聚二甲基硅氧烷 α-直链烯烃 四甲基四硅氧烷 长链烷基硅油 唇膏 滋润性 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工] TQ324.21