采用新型舒弹纤维开发羊毛加弹针织运动面料  

Development of Wool-blended Elastic Knitted Sports Fabric Using Micro-StretchTM

作　　者：金雪 王志强 张国成 张连根 

机构地区：[1]常州旭荣针织印染有限公司,江苏常州213017 [2]上海连晟纺织品有限公司,上海200333

出　　处：《针织工业》2015年第6期17-19,共3页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：介绍新型舒弹纤维Micro Stretch TM(简称MS)基本性能,如耐高温性、耐强酸强碱性、环保性等,并与普通氨纶进行对比。选用14.7 tex(40S)羊毛、锦纶混纺纱(混纺比为80∶20)与4.44 tex(40 D)MS舒弹丝交织编织添纱平针组织,在单面针织大圆机上开发一款新型羊毛加弹针织运动面料。详细阐述设备参数、织针排列、三角排列、注意事项等编织工艺,以及预定形、前处理、染色等染整工艺,并对成品各项性能进行测试。结果表明,该面料吸湿排湿性好,缩率及扭力、顶破强力和色牢度等均符合羊毛运动面料的要求,同时MS舒弹丝制成的针织面料无须高温坯定,尺寸稳定性好,产品品质优良,为高档毛针织产品的开发提供思路。Based on the basic performance of new Micro-StretcbTM fiber, such as high-temperature resistance, anti-acid and alkali properties, and environmental protection properties and so on, and compared with that of common spandex, the paper develops a new kind of wool＇blended elastic knitted sports fabric with plating plain pattern by using 14.7 tex wool and nylon blended yarns（80：20） and 4.44 tex Micro-StretchTM fiber inter-knitted on single circular knitting machine. It also introduces in detail the knitting technology, including equipment parameters, needle arrangement, cam arrangement, and the dyeing and finishing technology, such as pre-setting, pre-treatment and dyeing and so on. The results show that this kind of new fabric possesses good moisture absorbing and transferring properties, low shrinkage rates and torsion; the bursting strength and color fastness can meet the request of wool-blended elastic knitted fabric; the fabric also has good dimensional stability without high-temperature for presetting, which can provide a certain reference for the innovative design of top class wool knitted fabric.

关 键 词：羊毛弹性针织面料 MS舒弹纤维 生产工艺 性能测试 尺寸稳定性 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]