晚清世博会参展棉纺织品的分析  

Analysis of Cotton Textiles Exhibited at Late Qing Dynasty Exposition

作　　者：邢梦阳[1] 徐铮 赵丰 周旸 贾丽玲[1] 吴子婴[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学材料与纺织学院,杭州310018 [2]中国丝绸博物馆丝织品文物保护国家文物局重点科研基地,杭州310002

出　　处：《浙江理工大学学报（自然科学版）》2015年第4期457-463,共7页Journal of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University(Natural Sciences)

基　　金：国家科技部国家科技支撑计划项目(2013BAH58F01)

摘　　要：晚清我国参展世博会的纺织品目前已是一批珍贵的文物。通过对这些纺织品的分析研究,可获得当时的经济、制造业、纺织技术、文化等方面的信息。采用光学显微镜、红外光谱仪、X射线衍射仪等测试仪器对晚清世博会参展的棉织物、纱线、纤维进行鉴定分析,结果表明：这批棉纺织品的组织结构为平纹,经、纬密在180~500根/10cm不等;其纱线的最大捻度为910捻/m,线密度为32.8tex（18支）;纤维长度为21~25mm,纤维直径为14~16μm,棉种应为陆地棉;织物保存状况良好;部分样品在染色或后加工中经过碱液处理,部分样品应经过丝光工艺处理,说明生产在丝光技术工业化之初（1895年前后）,中国就出现了经过丝光工艺的棉纤维。这一结论填补了1927年之前中国没有关于丝光棉记载的空白。The textiles exhibited at late Qing Dynasty Exposition are precious historical relics.Some information about economy,manufacturing,textile technology and culture at that time can be obtained by analyzing these textiles.Optical microscope,infrared spectrometer and X-ray diffractometer etc.were used to identify and analyze cotton fabrics,yarn and fiber exhibited at late Qing Dynasty Exposition.The results show that organization structure of these cotton textiles is tabby;the warp and weft density is at the range of 180~500/10cm;the maximum twist of yarn is 910twist/m;linear density is 32.8tex（18s）;the fiber length is 21~25 mm;fiber diameter is 14~16μm;the breed of cotton should be Gossypium hirsutum;the fabrics are preserved well.Some samples were treated with alkali and some samples were treated with mercerizing process.This indicates that mercerized cotton had been found in China at the beginning of mercerized technology industrialization（around 1895）.This conclusion fills up the blank of China about mercerized cotton records before 1927.

关 键 词：清代后期 世界博览会 棉纺织品 文物鉴定 

分 类 号：TS102.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]