高导湿保暖天鹅绒面料的开发  

Development of High Moisture-conductivity and Heat Retention Velvet Knitted Fabric

作　　者：黄俊 

机构地区：[1]上海嘉麟杰纺织品股份有限公司,上海201504

出　　处：《针织工业》2015年第7期54-55,共2页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：针对普通天鹅绒织物厚实、不透气的问题,以16.67 tex/144 f的十字形截面阳离子改性涤纶为基布层,16.67 tex羊毛纱为毛圈层,在24针/25.4 mm大圆机上开发一款新型的高导湿保暖天鹅绒面料。详细介绍原料选择、接触面设计方法、沉降片排列设计、编织工艺及染整工艺等。结果表明,该面料的块状毛圈形成的花型具有一定厚度,保证了面料的保暖性;体肤表面汗液又可通过基布层的异形截面阳离子改性涤纶产生的芯吸效应传递给毛圈层,使面料具有出众的导湿快干功能,穿着舒适性强,具有良好的市场应用前景。In terms of the problems of bulkiness and air impermeability of common velvet, the paper develops a new kind of high moisture-conductivity and heat retention fabric on the 24 G/25.4 mm circular knitting machine, by using 16.67 tex/144 f cationic polyester with cross-shaped cross-section as the stitch yarn and the 16.67 tex wool as the loop yarn. It also introduces in detail the raw material selection, the design method of contact surface, sinker arrangement, the knitting technology and the dyeing and finishing technology and so on. The results show that the pattern of the bulky terry loop side has certain thickness which can ensure the heat retention properties of the fabric; while the cationic polyester with cross-shaped cross-section with moisture absorbing ability on the nextto-skin side can conduct the sweat to the loop side, which endows the product with good moisture absorbing and fast-dry properties and wear comfort. This developed fabric has a bright practical prospect.

关 键 词：天鹅绒 毛圈层 块状花型 保暖性 导湿快干性 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]