横编仿蕾丝组织及其毛衫产品的设计  

Flat Knitted Imitation Lace Structure and Development

作　　者：杨茜[1] 丛洪莲[1] 吴志明[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《针织工业》2015年第7期68-71,共4页Knitting Industries

基　　金：国家科技支撑项目子课题(2012BAF13B03);江苏省产学研联合创新资金-前瞻性联合研究项目子课题(BY2012072)

摘　　要：在研究蕾丝面料组织结构特征及图案类型的基础上,结合横编工艺原理,运用移圈、集圈、浮线等手段设计一系列仿蕾丝的横编组织结构,如网眼类、波纹类及图案类仿蕾丝组织结构。并采用羊毛和金银丝纱线,在斯托尔(Stoll)CMS 530电脑横机上开发了一款新型仿蕾丝组织结构针织毛衫,详细分析组织结构设计和编织工艺。该毛衫不仅能够体现蕾丝面料的镂空装饰效果,同时突破了蕾丝拼接类针织毛衫的工艺限制,提升了产品价值,对针织毛衫的装饰设计有一定的指导意义。Based the study of strueture characteristics and pattern types of lace fabric, the paper develops a series of flat knitted imitation lace structures including mesh, ripple and other patterns, by using the methods such as transfer stitch, tuck stitch and float loop and so on, combined with flat knitting principle. It also designs a new kind of imitation lace sweater on the Stoll CMS 530 flat knitting machine by using wool and metallic yarn. The re- suits show that the new sweater not only reflects the hollow-out decorative effect of lace fabrics, but also breaks through the technology limit of the lace-merging sweater, which can enhance the product value and provide guid- ance for the adornment design of the knitted sweater.

关 键 词：横编 仿蕾丝 组织结构 针织毛衫 编织工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]