户外服装面料服用性能评价  

Classified Evaluation of Wear Comfort of Coated Fabrics for Outdoor Clothing

作　　者：吴世刚[1] 陆鑫[1] 

机构地区：[1]辽东学院服装与纺织学院,辽宁丹东118000

出　　处：《北京服装学院学报（自然科学版）》2015年第2期23-28,共6页Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology：Natural Science Edition

基　　金：辽宁省高等学校科学研究项目(L2014534);丹东科技公关项目(13209);功能性纺织材料重点实验室基金项目

摘　　要：为研究户外服装涂层面料的服用舒适性,从基布组织、复合结构、涂层和贴膜因素考虑,共选取12种试样分4组进行对比,其中PU 3层复合面料、TPU 3层复合面料、PU涂层面料和贴膜面料各3种.针对试样进行湿阻、热阻、抗静电、表面平滑度、悬垂性能和拉伸性能测试.通过试验数据分析和灰色聚类评估,对面料的服用舒适性能进行分类评价.结果表明,PU湿法涂层面料的透湿性能、保暖性能、平滑性能和拉伸性能综合评价系数高于其他面料,其次是针织贴膜面料.本研究为涂层面料的研发和户外服装面料的选择提供参考.The fabric texture, structure and coating film were studied in this paper to evaluate the comfort of outdoor clothing, 12 samples were divided into four groups for comparing, including 3 3- layer PU coated fabrics, 3 TPU coated fabric, 3 PU coated fabrics and 3 film fabrics. The perform- ance of the fabrics including water-vapor resistance, thermal resistance, antistatic property, surface smoothness, fabric drape and tensile property were tested and analyzed through data analysis and grey cluster evaluation. The results show that PU wet process coating fabric is preferred for its higher water-vapor penetration, thermal property, smoothness and tensile properties, followed by knitting film coated fabric. The results can be applied in the selection of coated fabrics for outdoor garment.

关 键 词：户外服装 涂层面料 服用舒适性 灰色定权聚类 

分 类 号：TS941.48[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]