Beach Morphology and Coastline Evolution in the Southern Bohai Strait  

作　　者：ZHANG Wei WU Jianzheng LI Weiran ZHU Longhai HU Rijun JIANG shenghui SUN Yonggen WANG Huijuan 

机构地区：[1]College of Marine Geoscience, Ocean University of China [2]Qingdao Marine Geological Engineering Investigation Institute [3]Key Laboratory of Submarine Geosciences and Prospecting Techniques, Ministry of Education,Ocean University of China [4]First Institute of Oceanography, SOA [5]Qingdao Boyan Marine Environment Science & Technology Co.Ltd.

出　　处：《Journal of Ocean University of China》2015年第5期803-815,共13页中国海洋大学学报（英文版）

基　　金：supported by the National Natural Science Foundation for the Youth(No.41106039)

摘　　要：The beach studied in this paper spans a length of 51 km and is one of several long sandy beaches in the southern Bohai Strait. Due to the obstruction of islands in the northeast and the influence of the underwater topography, the wave environment in the offshore area is complex; beach types and sediment transport characteristics vary along different coasts. The coastlines extracted from six aerial photographs in different years were compared to demonstrate the evolving features. Seven typical beach profiles were selected to study the lateral beach variation characteristics. Continuous wind and wave observation data from Beihuangcheng ocean station during 2009 were employed for the hindcast of the local wave environment using a regional spectral wave model. Then the results of the wave hindcast were incorporated into the LITDRIFT model to compute the sediment transport rates and directions along the coasts and analyze the longshore sand movement. The results show that the coastline evolution of sand beaches in the southern Bohai Strait has spatial and temporal variations and the coast can be divided into four typical regions. Region （1）, the north coast of Qimudao, is a slightly eroded and dissipative beach with a large sediment transport rate; Region （II）, the southwest coast of Gangluan Port, is a slightly deposited and dissipative beach with moderate sediment transport rate; Region （III）, in the central area, is a beach that is gradually transformed from a slightly eroded dissipative beach to a moderately or slightly strong eroded bar-trough beach from west to east with a relatively moderate sediment transport rate. Region （IV）, on the east coast, is a strongly eroded and reflective beach with a weak sediment transport rate. The wave conditions exhibit an increasing trend from west to east in the off- shore area. The distribution of the wave-induced current inside the wave breaking region and the littoral sediment transport in the nearshore region exhibit a gradual weakening tendency from west tThe beach studied in this paper spans a length of 51 km and is one of several long sandy beaches in the southern Bohai Strait. Due to the obstruction of islands in the northeast and the influence of the underwater topography, the wave environment in the offshore area is complex; beach types and sediment transport characteristics vary along different coasts. The coastlines extracted from six aerial photographs in different years were compared to demonstrate the evolving features. Seven typical beach profiles were selected to study the lateral beach variation characteristics. Continuous wind and wave observation data from Beihuangcheng ocean station during 2009 were employed for the hindcast of the local wave environment using a regional spectral wave model. Then the results of the wave hindcast were incorporated into the LITDRIFT model to compute the sediment transport rates and directions along the coasts and analyze the longshore sand movement. The results show that the coastline evolution of sand beaches in the southern Bohai Strait has spatial and temporal variations and the coast can be divided into four typical regions. Region(I), the north coast of Qimudao, is a slightly eroded and dissipative beach with a large sediment transport rate; Region(II), the southwest coast of Gangluan Port, is a slightly deposited and dissipative beach with moderate sediment transport rate; Region(III), in the central area, is a beach that is gradually transformed from a slightly eroded dissipative beach to a moderately or slightly strong eroded bar-trough beach from west to east with a relatively moderate sediment transport rate. Region(IV), on the east coast, is a strongly eroded and reflective beach with a weak sediment transport rate. The wave conditions exhibit an increasing trend from west to east in the offshore area. The distribution of the wave-induced current inside the wave breaking region and the littoral sediment transport in the nearshore region exhibit a gradual weakening tendency from west to east, which is oppos

关 键 词：sand beach coastline evolution profile feature wave hind-casting wave-induced current littoral sediment transport 

分 类 号：P737.1[天文地球—海洋地质]