基于缓坡方程在岛礁地形上波浪破碎的模拟研究  

Simulation of wave breaking on the reefs terrain using mild-slope equation

作　　者：方亚冰[1] 柳淑学[1] 李金宣[1] 刘思[1] 

机构地区：[1]大连理工大学海岸和近海工程国家重点实验室,大连116024

出　　处：《水道港口》2015年第4期290-296,共7页Journal of Waterway and Harbor

基　　金：国家重点基础研究发展(973)计划资助项目(2013CB036101;2011CB013703);国家自然科学基金创新研究群体基金(51221961)

摘　　要：波浪从深海传至近岸岛礁时,一般需要经过落差较大的礁坪边缘,水深急剧变化,导致波浪在传播过程中发生破碎,因此准确模拟波浪的破碎过程以及破碎后的波高大小,对于岛礁海岸工程建设具有重要的意义。缓坡方程是描述近岸波浪传播变形较好的数值模型之一,文章在采用自适应有限元求解缓坡方程所建立的数值计算模型的基础上,引入描述波浪破碎的模型,建立可以描述波浪破碎影响的近岸波浪数值模型。基于二维岛礁地形上的波浪实验,比较分析了4种不同的波浪破碎能量损失因子,给出了适合于岛礁地形条件下波浪传播破碎模拟的模型。When the waves propagate from the deep water to the inshore reefs, a large gap reef flat must be overcome, leading to dramatic changes in water depth. This will cause the wave breaking. It is important for the engi-neering design on the terrain to accurately simulate the wave breaking and calculate the wave heights after wave breaking. Mild-slope equation is one of the best numerical models to describe near shore wave transformation. Based on a self-adaptive finite element numerical model to solve the mild-slope equation, a near shore numerical model to simulate wave breaking was developed by introducing the wave breaking model in this paper. Four kinds of wave breaking model were used and compared based on the experimental results of the wave propagation on the two-dimensional reefs terrain. A numerical model for solving the wave transformation on the two-dimensional reefs ter-rain was proposed.

关 键 词：二维岛礁地形 缓坡方程 波浪破碎 

分 类 号：TV142[水利工程—水力学及河流动力学] TV131.6