灯笼袖的结构参数对袖子整体造型的影响  

Influence of lantern sleeve's structural parameter on the whole sleeve's modeling

作　　者：雷清清[1] 李哲[1] 

机构地区：[1]嘉兴学院设计学院(中国)

出　　处：《国际纺织导报》2015年第8期58-60,62,共4页Melliand China

摘　　要：衣袖是构成整体服装的主要部件之一,其中灯笼袖是一种极具代表性的袖型。许多结构参数都会影响灯笼袖的整体造型。研究了灯笼袖袖肥展开量与袖山上泡量、袖口下垂量之间的关系。将缝纫制作的灯笼袖穿着在人台上观察,采用主观评价方法,分析得出不同袖肥展开量下,灯笼袖整体效果最佳的袖山上泡量和袖口下垂量。结果表明:灯笼袖的袖肥展开量和袖山上泡量、袖口下垂量基本呈正比,袖肥展开量越大,袖山上泡量和袖口下垂量也越大。The sleeve is a major component of clothing, of which the lantern sleeve is an extremely representative sleeve type. Many structural parameters will affect whole shape of the lantern sleeve. The relationship of spread amount of sleeve width, sleeve cap puffed amount and sleeve bottom sag for lantern sleeve were studied. The lantern sleeves were sewn and worn on a mannequin. Using the method of subjective evaluation, under each different sleeves spread amount, sleeve cap puffed amount and sleeve bottom sag for perfect integral effect of the lantern sleeve were analyzed and obtained. The results showed that the spread amount of sleeve width was in direct proportion to sleeve cap puffed amount and the sleeve bottom sag. The sleeve cap puffed amount and sleeve bottom sag increased with the increment of the spread amount of sleeve width.

关 键 词：灯笼袖 结构参数 袖肥展开量 袖山上泡量 袖口下垂量 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]