国产电脑横机全成形毛衫编织工艺探讨  

An Analysis on Fully-fashioned Garment Knitting Process of Domestic Computerized Flat Knitting Machine

作　　者：黄林初[1,2] 宋广礼[1] 郭海斌 

机构地区：[1]天津工业大学纺织学院,天津300387 [2]金龙科技股份有限公司,江苏常熟215500

出　　处：《针织工业》2015年第9期12-16,共5页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：基于近几年龙星牌双针床电脑横机全成形产品的编织研发,对全成形服装的编织工艺进行研究。在基础款型的基础上阐述全成形毛衫起口、袖身合并、夹位收针、肩以及领子等重要部分的编织工艺,并以全成形拼色短袖套裙的开发为例,分析全成形服装在国产电脑横机上的编织工艺,包括原料选择、设备参数、组织结构、工艺计算、花型设计、编织参数设置以及后整理工艺等。同时,对该款全成形毛衫生产中存在的问题进行分析,并给出解决方案,为推动全成形产品进一步的研发提供理论和应用基础。Based on the development of fully-fashioned garment products on LongXing two-bed computerized flat knitting machine in recent years, the paper studies the knitting process of fully-fashioned garment products. Based on a basic siyle, it introduces in detail the knitting technology of fully-fashioned garment opening, combination of sleeve and body, narrowing process of armhole, shoulder and collar knitting, etc. In addition, taking the colormatched short-sleeved skirt as example, it analyzes the fully-fashioned garment knitting process of domestic computerized flat knitting machine including material＇s selection, equipment parameters, structure, process calculation, patter design, knitting parameters and post-finishing process and so on. Meanwhile, it analyzes the existing prob- lems in production and gives the solutions, which can provide theoretical and applied basis for the further develop- ment of fully-fashioned garment products.

关 键 词：电脑横机 毛衫 全成形 编织工艺 设备 花型设计 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]