基于线迹的裁剪类针织服装面料二次设计  

Stitch Type Based Fabric Re-design of Cut-and-sew Knitted Apparel

作　　者：李沫[1] 潘海音[1] 

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《针织工业》2015年第9期56-59,共4页Knitting Industries

基　　金：北京服装学院2015年研究生科研创新项目(120301990114)

摘　　要：阐述裁剪类针织服装面料二次设计的意义,并从4个方面分析以线迹为其创新设计手段的原因,包括:线迹种类与功能的多样性,线迹对服装构成的重要性,线迹的美学价值和经济价值。分析影响裁剪类针织服装面料线迹效果的因素,包括缝线材质和色彩,线迹类型、线迹密度与宽度、线迹形状、线迹排列与分布等线迹形成的视觉轨迹,以及面料对二次设计最终效果的影响。基于此,结合大量实例,提出裁剪类针织服装面料二次设计中的线迹创新应用方式,以期拓宽裁剪类针织服装面料二次设计中线迹的设计思路,启发裁剪类针织服装的创新设计。The paper explains the significance of the fabric re-design of cut-and-sew knitted apparel, and analyzes the reasons of choosing stitch type as the innovation means from four aspects, the variety of stitch types and functions, the significance of stitch as clothing construction, the aesthetic value of stitch, and the economic value of stitch. It analyzes the factors affecting stitch effect, studies deeply on the material and color of sewing thread, stitch type, stitch density and width, stitch shape, stitch arrangement and the impact of fabric factors on the final effect of re-design. It proposes the way of stitch innovative applications in fabric re-design of cut-and-sew knitted apparel combined with a large number of instances. It can be used to widen design ideas of stitch in fabric re-design of knitted apparel, and inspire the innovative design of cut-and-sew knitted apparel.

关 键 词：针织服装 面料二次设计 线迹 裁剪 

分 类 号：TS941.63[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]