现代男西服风格演变及工艺特点  

Characteristic and innovation on style of modern men's suit

作　　者：陈明艳[1] 赵芹[1] 

机构地区：[1]温州大学美术与设计学院,浙江温州325027

出　　处：《纺织学报》2015年第10期120-127,共8页Journal of Textile Research

摘　　要：基于男西服市场需求、企业生产实际和发展中遇到的瓶颈,分析现代男士的经典礼服、商务西服、休闲西服和时尚西服的不同风格特征,深入探究现代男西服的造型、色彩面料、版型技术及工艺特点的变革,重点探析时尚西服工艺简化及"无框"的创新设计,利用新型粘合衬,抛弃胸衬、覆衬等工艺,以省道转移原理替代传统西服的归拔烫技术,以及不同风格西服各自在实际生活中存在的意义和发展的规律,从根本上鉴定与认知现代男西服文化。为我国西服行业发展提供借鉴,使西服企业从中找出顺应社会、适合自身发展的道路。Based on the market demand for men＇s suits and the bottleneck enterprises encountered in the actual production in the process of the development, this article analyzes different characteristics of the modern men＇s classic suits, business suits, Leisure suits and fashionable suits, and make a deeper exploration on the change and innovation of the style modeling, color, fabric, production technology and process characteristic of modern men＇s suit, focusing on the simplification of the technology of the fashionable suits, the rimless and innovative design, the technology such as using new types of fusible interlining, abandoning chest interlining and cover lining, and the fundamental principle about the change of dart instead of the ironing to pull method of traditional suits as well as the meaning and the law of different styles of suits development in a real life on the basis of previous studies which can help to fundamentally define and perceive the civilization of modern men＇s suit. It will provide guidance for the development of suit industries in China, helping enterprises to find the development path which comply with the need of the society and best fit them.

关 键 词：经典礼服 商务西服 休闲西服 时尚西服 版型技术 

分 类 号：TS941[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]