非粘合衬西装面衬料塑型工艺配伍研究  

Research on Compatibility of Shaping Process for Non-adhesive Suit Interlining

作　　者：杨阳[1] 杨子田[1] 谢俊[1] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装.艺术设计学院,服装设计与工程专业上海200051

出　　处：《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》2015年第3期8-14,18,共8页Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology

摘　　要：对市场和企业常见的非粘合衬西装面料进行调研,选用4种不同的面料、两种组合衬,采用手工覆衬和流水线覆衬工艺,正交设计实验并制作16个非粘合衬前片,采用主观评价方法,并根据灰色加权关联度值的大小判断前片效果,建立覆衬工艺对前片塑型效果的数学模型,为企业实际生产非粘合衬西服的工艺配伍提供指导性建议。Based on the investigation and research of non-adhesive lining of suit fabrics commonly found in market and enterprises, four different fabrics and two combined interlinings have been chosen. By using manual and assembly line cover process and orthogonal design experiment, 16 non-adhesive front interlinings have been made. The subjective evaluation method is used and the front effect is judged by the value of grey weighted correlation degree. A mathematical model of the lining technology to the front shaping effect has been established, which provides guiding advice of process compatibility for the enterprises to produce non-adhesive interlining suit.

关 键 词：非粘合衬西装 组合衬 覆衬工艺 工艺配伍 

分 类 号：TS941.712[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]