套包鞋工艺方法及技术难点分析  

Research on moccasin shoes' process technology

作　　者：韩建林[1] 

机构地区：[1]黎明职业大学,福建泉州362000

出　　处：《中国皮革》2015年第17期43-47,共5页China Leather

基　　金：泉州市科技局2013Z49<套包鞋/一种高档休闲鞋工业制版技术研究>课题;黎明职业大学科研团队建设项目(LMTD2014107)

摘　　要：根据帮面结构、帮底成型工艺的不同,将套包鞋划分为耳式和舌式套包鞋、真套包鞋和假套包鞋,并重点分析了同属于真套包鞋的半套包鞋和全套包鞋的工艺技术难点。针对围条与围盖接帮工艺,详细介绍了围条有无皱褶处理、围条围盖接帮起梗及围条围盖接帮缝纫过程中的具体操作步骤和要求。同时,还分别介绍了法国滚边和美国滚边技术在套包鞋后帮上口滚边工艺中的具体应用。该项工艺技术已成功应用于套包鞋工业化批量生产,有效提高了开版精度和生产效率。To solve the problem of moccasin shoes＇ classification, uppers structure design, pattern cutting technology and stitching technology. Systematization the moccasin to＇semi - inclusive moccasin, all - inclusive moccasin and simulation moccasin （dummy moccasin）by the component structure, systematization it to the styles withear styles or with tongue styles by uppers de- sign. Detailed exhaustive study of key technique from an industrial production process aspects analyzed and discussed a set of Moccasin shoes＇ styles, shapes and types of characteristics, make a detailed analysis of their targeted heavy and difficult process design methods. To solve the problem of vamp＇s pattern cutting technology when it with or without wrinkles, the pattern stitching technology of the apron and vamp, the different stitching techniques between the apron and vamp. Analyzes the back strap＇s bind- ing technology includes the binding technology in France and the binding technology in United States. The study has been success- fully applied for moccasin＇s industrial production, effectively improve the pattern cutting＇s accuracy and ~ncrease the productivity.

关 键 词：套包鞋 款式 帮面结构 工艺 制版技术 

分 类 号：TS943.6[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]