纬二重仿针织牛仔面料的设计与生产  

Design and Production of Double Weft Knitting-like Jean Fabric

作　　者：吕治家 李德朝[2] 

机构地区：[1]魏桥纺织股份有限公司,山东滨州256200 [2]济南大学,山东济南250022

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2015年第11期43-46,共4页Cotton Textile Technology

摘　　要：探讨纬二重仿针织牛仔面料的设计生产要点。对该产品的设计过程和生产实施关键工艺进行了介绍和分析。采用涤棉交织单染上色工艺,经纱为纯涤纱,纬纱为粗特转杯纺棉纱和棉氨弹力包芯纱;优选转杯纱的配棉;浆纱重被覆、求渗透、小伸长;采用分区穿综,按照表里层组织区别设置织造工艺参数,最终使织机效率达到90%以上。认为:通过合理设计并采取相应技术措施,可以开发出兼具经典外观和柔软触感的纬二重仿针织牛仔面料。Design and production key points of weft double knitting-like jean fabric were discussed. The de signing process and key processing in production and irrlplement of the product were introduced and analyzed. Polyester cotton interweaving single dying process were adopted. Pure polyester yarn was selected as warp. Thick cotton rotor yarn and cotton spandex elastic core spun yarn were used as weft. The cotton assorting of rotor yarn were optimized. Principle of higher cover age, more permeability and smaller elongation was adopted in sizing. Space draft was adopted. Weaving technology parameters were set differently according to surface and inner texture. The loom efficiency was reached above 90G finally. It is considered that weft double knitting-like jean fabric with classic appearance and soft feeling can be developed by reasonable design and taking corresponding technology measures.

关 键 词：纬二重组织 转杯纱 经纱 纬纱 整经速度 浆纱工艺 喷气织机 

分 类 号：TS105.11[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]